Strobotics

For the next version of the widget,  I’m planning to have an on board boost regulator.  This design will allows the widget to run from just about any voltage source as low as 0.7v (so NiMh will be fine) and up to 5.5v, this boost regulator in conjunction with a standard LDO regulator will give me a nice input voltage range of 0.7v – 12V.  Before I finalise the design I wanted to test things to see how well it’ll work. 

I ordered in a couple of battery holders from Polou with an integrated boost regulator, since the widgets are designed for 3.3v operation I ordered this model http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/796,  that provides a 3.3v 100mA supply from a single AA battery, I’m not too sure what the minimum voltage is, but is running fine on a single NiMh cell.

Well today they arrived and I now have one hooked up to my solar powered widget.  Installation was simple as the small pcb on the rear of the battery holder allows me to direct access to the cell contacts, so I soldered the solar cell +ve and –ve on the respective contacts.

From some previous tests with my solar powered widget, I was finding that the batteries would start charging when the solar cell output reached around 2.8 –2.9v, this is fine for during the day with the solar cell in direct sunlight, now with the single cell I’m finding that inside under artificial light I’m charging at around 1.5v, with plenty of overhead left.

You can see below the voltage output of the boost regulator is ~3.3v (3.322 to be exact) and the voltage from my solar cell is ~1.52v, this is inside under some standard down lights while writing this post at the kitchen table (actually one of the down lights is dead so I could expect a little more output from the cell)

Just to try something different I removed the battery, seeing if the regulator could run direct from the solar cell, unfortunately it doesn’t, I doubt the cell in the current light conditions can provide enough start up current for the regulator,  I will however try it in the natural sunlight tomorrow.

With the addition of the boost regulator, and the widget in max power savings between sensor reading (when asleep widget is drawing 1.5uA, which is most of the time) then the widget should run indefinitely from the single cell….or maybe I could just get away with a solar cell and a super cap now there’s a future project….

One of the tasks I want to use the widget boards for is a Wireless Sensor Network around the house for measuring environmental values.  The sensors that I want to live outdoors will need to be self sufficient in terms of power, so I wanted to see if I could charge the batteries via solar, of course this can be done, but again I want to do it as cheaply and as simply as possible, I also want the widget board to monitor the solar voltage and report it back.

I already had a 3.6v 0.2w cell that I picked up some time ago from Sure Electronics for about $10 for 5.  The spec for this cell is max voltage (under load) is 3.6v and max current is 60mA, more than enough to trickle charge x2 AA NIMH batteries. 

The Batteries should not require much of a top up as the node will be sleeping most of the time, from the power saving discussion @ JEELabs, by adding the solar, I should be able to just leave the node without having to change batteries (replacing failed batteries aside).

To measure the voltage produced by the solar cell I need a voltage divider that would produce 1.1v max @ 3.6v.

Why 1.1v I hear you ask?  The reason for the A/D full scale input voltage of 1.1V is that I’ll be using the ATMega168 internal bandgap reference as the AREF source for the onboard A/D and not the default AREF. 

There are a couple for reasons for this.  The internal bandap reference itself is a 1.1v voltage reference, because the battery voltage may change over time (remember I’m not using any onboard voltage regulators) so as the VCC / battery voltage changes, so would my A/D voltage readings unless I use a reference voltage.   Now as the reference is 1.1v this means that my input must not go above 1.1v else I will go over scale and get an incorrect reading.

I’m not going to bore you with the math so a quick calculation using an online voltage divider calculator (http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Voltage-Divider-Calculator.phtml)

Input Voltage = 3.6v

Output Voltage = 1.0v  (remember I don’t want to go over 1.1V so I’ve given myself some headroom)

Gave the values for R1 = 26K and R2 = 10K

Luckily I had both these values, however for the 26K I only had  one in 5% tolerance, the 10K I had as 1% (I like to use low tolerance resistors for voltage dividers so my error is minimised),upon testing the 26K resistor actually read 26.4K on my meter, so after plugging these real values in my actual FS Vout is 0.989v, pretty close to 1.0V.

A blocking diode is also required to prevent any damage to the Solar cell by the batteries, see the circuit and photo below.

(Click for larger image)

(Click for larger image and notes)

Arduino Sketch to read the voltage produced by the solar cell, next step is to find a waterproof housing and add some environmental sensors. 

Another benefit of taking voltage readings of the solar cell is I now have a light sensor.

int raw_solar = 0;        // Raw Solar FS ~ 1.0v

int raw_bandgap = 0;      // Intenal bandgap reference

float volt_solar = 0.0;

void setup(){

  Serial.begin(57600);

  analogReference(INTERNAL);  // select internal reference for AREF

}

void loop(){

  raw_solar = analogRead(0);                         // read solar voltage raw values

  volt_solar = (raw_solar * 1.1 * 3.617) / 1024;     // Scale ADC input.  (voltage divider r1= 26.4k  r2 = 10k  vi=vo/(r2/(r1+r2)) = vo/.2777 =  vo * 3.617

  Serial.print(volt_solar);                          // display raw solar voltage reading

  Serial.println("v");  

  delay(1000);                    

}